Costumes and Performances by Tab Kimpton

The Path to Princedom Part 6- The Chronicles of Coat.

Coat89

And now the most complex part of the costume broken down- the COAT.

Coat1

First some pattern drafting- I tend to make up a pattern on the lining so I can fit the lining before going into the main fabric.

Coat2

Lining cut out, you can see the front, sides and back more clearly here.

Coat3

I make up the lining then borrow a sexy Christian to check the fit.

Coat4 Coat5 Coat6

Sleeves added to the lining. Here you can see that it’s a reeeel nice duchess satin.

Coat7

Shot of the lined up back seams.

 

Coat30 Coat31

 

I check the fit over the other parts I’ve made.

Coat9

I use erasable ink to draw the pattern out onto the main fabric, a pink upholstery fabric that I tracked down on ebay after months of searching >.>

Coat16

All of the main seams finished ready for pressing.

Coat17

Pressed then I iron on a butt-tonne of interfacing, making sure there’s at least 5 inches all around so I can place the embroidery.

Coat18

I create a repeating embroidery design and mark all the start and finish points all along the edge of the coat.

Coat19 Coat20

Time for some scary embroidery- if the machine slips up I have to cut the panel out and start again D:

Coat24

 

Finished front embroidery

Coat21

The bottom needs some special attention- I can’t just use a repeat pattern on the corners so I make up a huge template after measuring the bottom of the coat.

 

Coat23

Coat26

Coat27

Coat28

 

 

 

Several finger biting hours of embroidery later and we’re all done!

Coat29

Coat32

 

The so called ‘erasing’ ink decided to not come off so I had to very carefully take it off with some nail polish remover.

Coat8

 

Main coat is done so I design some embroidery for the pocket flaps. This is me adding a lining and bias to the edges.

Coat22

300 pears added later…

Coat33

 

 

Now a welted pocket- I interface 3 ruler measures of the fabric

Coat34

 

 

 

Ironed up each side.

Coat35

 

Measured up against the pocket flap.

 

Coat36

 

…Then I test it against the coat and realise that I’ve made the pocket flap too big. TIME TO CUT UP ALL MY WORK : D

 

 

 

Coat37

 

Add some more bias to the cut sides. I’ve left the pearl strings loose so the line of stitching would secure it.

Coat38

 

Folded over like a fan and sewn down each side.

 

 

 

 

Coat39

 

 

I then use the pearls to sew the bias down and fix the mistake.

 

Coat40

 

 

 

Back to the welted pocket- finally have the right pocket dimensions so I mark it on the facing.

Coat41

 

Pocket in place to check size.

Coat42

 

I sew two lines down either side of the facing. For a better tutorial check out here: http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/welt_pocket_construction/

 

 

 

 

 

 

Coat43

 

Turned the other way out, cut down the middle. Edges are cut into triangles.

Coat44

 

Flipped inside out it suddenly becomes awesome.

 

Coat45

 

Other side after some pressing

Coat46

 

Sides folded down then I sew across the triangles to secure the sides.

 

Coat47

 

This is the pocket lining plus a facing of the fashion fabric.

 

Coat48

 

Pocket lining sewn to the top and bottom of the welt.

 

 

 

 

Coat49

 

Sides sewn up nice and purty.

Coat50

 

The finished pocket.

Coat51

 

Complete with smexy facing.

Coat52

 

I use a ladder stitch to secure the pocket flap over the top invisibly.

Coat53

 

Coat54

 

YUS POCKET.

Coat55

 

Now time to add ALL THE PEARLS.

Coat57Coat58Coat59Coat60

 

Total pearls so far: 4500. I watched a LOT of Game of Thrones.

Coat61Coat62

 

Shot of the insides. See that I’ve left all the ends loose so if a pearl works free I can sew it back on. I’ve used an upholstery thread to avoid snaps, but it means I have to throw away about 5% of pearls as the holes are too small for the needle I have to use.

Coat63

 

Insides of the sleeves, showing how I slowly went over the entire surface of the fabric. Each set of 2 gets a knot either side so if the thread pulls it won’t wreck the entire thing.

 

 

Coat56

 

Sleeve tested against the main.

Coat64

 

When I’m setting sleeves into anything I use a fuck loads of pins.

 

 

Coat65Coat66Coat67Coat68

 

Photos of the coat with sleeves set in inside and out.

 

 

Coat73

 

At this point I look at the reference and realise that the shoulders are far too wide. I’ve just brought a suit with shoulders the right width so I take the back measurement from this suit and use it to mark out the shoulders on the George coat.

Coat74Coat75

 

I make some adjustments to the back seam so it lies flat over the check suit.

 

Coat76

 

I take the cut from one side and pin to the other to make sure I adjust the same on both sides.

 

 

Coat77Coat78

 

I’ve got a great book on tailoring that runs you through how to adjust tailored patterns. The coat was too wide on the shoulders and too loose above the waist.

 

Coat79

 

Sleeves back in and much better!

 

Coat80

 

Coat81

 

Checking that the lining fits. I’ve also made the same adjustments to the lining so it sits correctly.

 

Coat69

 

Making the shoulder pads- two layers of wadding and some interfacing.

Coat70

 

Ironed down the wadding and it makes a nice solid and firm pad in the right size.

 

Coat71

 

Ironed the edges underneath.

 

 

Coat82

 

This then gets sewn onto the shoulder seam with a whip stitch.

 

 

 

Coat10

Now time for some cuffs! I use the same repeat pattern and embroider it 4 times along in a line. Plus some more pearlsssss.

Coat11 Coat12

Sewn in a loop

Coat14

Adding the bias binding and lining.

Coat15

I use the pearls to hold the bias down, saves stitching it separately by hand.

Coat84

The cuff gets added to the bottom of the sleeve. I have quite short arms so this is a chance to make sure the sleeves are the right length.

 

 

Coat85

 

Once the cuff is sewn to the bottom of the sleeve. The lining has been sewn in already and bias bound so the sleeve is the final part of the lining.

 

Coat86

 

The lining is then hand stitched to cover up the stitching.

Coat13

Last bit of embroidery- I need buttons for the side, cuffs and back.

 

 

Coat87

 

Coat88

 

Then another 1000 pearls later, and I’m all done!

 

 

Coat89

 

VICTORY.

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4 Responses

  1. Amanda Panda

    FABTAB! Awesome work!

    August 27, 2013 at 9:55 am

  2. cold_tea

    This is an INSANE amount of work! Kudos!

    Why didn’t you do the buttons more substantial?

    September 20, 2013 at 1:24 pm

    • Tab

      Thank you! I’m not sure what you mean by substantial? Thicker?

      September 21, 2013 at 12:10 pm

  3. isabel

    god damnit this is amazingggggggggggggg. i learnt a lot about tailoring/making suits and stuff out of this !! the end result is very beautiful!

    February 13, 2014 at 4:04 am

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