Costumes and Performances by Tab Kimpton

A Tale of Two Doctors- Part 3, The Master Coat Cutting

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The mock up came back from the customer- we had some issues on the arm placement and the back needed to come in a bit so I made some adjustments then started scribbling! Labelling is super important for this project or you’ll just get lost in a sea of slightly triangular pattern pieces.

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Taking out some of the waist

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Adjusting dat sleeve seam

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The coat gets cut in half- one half becomes the pattern for the main body.

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The other half gets simplified and becomes the lining and facing.

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I cut out a black piece for the centre split and another red piece for the outer edge.

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Some faff and ironing later and there’s a beautiful piped edge!

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I counted and there’s exactly 6 green and 6 red squares with the extra weirdies on top. Remember to include an extra 6cm on the bottom for seam allowance!

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Some hand sewing- it’s really weird to have to make stitches visible but wahhheeyyy.

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The system I used for cutting out fabric is that I would go along the bottom of the coat starting at the middle back and each time I needed a new fabric I’d cut out all I needed in that one fabric. This was to try to keep things simple to follow while avoiding ‘oh my gawd I have so much to cut out what even is anything’ panic.  This image became a very useful reference here:

three sections finished-800

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The Appliqué then gets added to the green back panel and everything is beautiful. I’d actually recommend adding the appliqué’s last so you can adjust the seam at the back more, but this worked for me this way too.

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Next fabric I needed was the tartan so I cut all of that out. I merged two of the pieces because I’m lazy.

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It’s starting to look like an actual coat!

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Now to cut the boucle- the most expensive fabric of all the ones I bought. Scary moment time!

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Awwww yiiiisss.

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Sewing the bottom of the back to the top.

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Euston we have an actual thing that looks like a coat!

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Then there’s a bunch more fabric cutting, making sure that I check that I’ve got them the right way around as I go!

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I used this reference from sixthdoctorcostume.blogspot.co.uk to get the checks to line up in the collar perfectly.

Fabric 6 jigsaw-on swatch

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Pattern cut, now onto the sewing!

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One Response

  1. Ian Michael MacPharlaine

    Man this coat, as much as I LOVE it, seems like a total nightmare to draft, cut, and sew! This would have probably been the part where I rage quit! :P

    Also LOVE your 1337-tastic photo commentary. They totally add to the satisfaction of seeing this come together!

    Thank you for putting this up, hopefully I’ll work up the courage to do my own coat one day, and if I give up Ill just come to you! :P

    Keep up the good work!

    August 7, 2015 at 3:59 pm

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